The Inns and Pubs of Kirkgate

Old, disused, forgotten and converted pubs
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drapesy
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Post by drapesy »

Whilst we are all working on the 'Skulls' thread it struck me that seems to be a huge gap in our knowledge of the pubs on this ancient thoroughfare.Other parts of Central Leeds seem to be much better known - as an example; 20 years ago Barrie Pepper produced an excellent book called the 'Old Inns and Pubs of Leeds'. Its not a criticism but this book contains references to 13 pubs that fronted on to or had access to Briggate. How many could you say the same about on Kirkgate? Zero!This thread is my attempt to shed a bit of light on this subject and hopefully will help clear up some confusion.Photos are from Leodis or are my own.    
there are 10 types of people in the world. Those that understand ternary, those that don't and those that think this a joke about the binary system.

drapesy
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Post by drapesy »

As has been mentioned before Kirkgate has a peculiar numbering system - starting at the North Side of the Junction with Briggate running east, crossing over at the parish church/Palace pub than running back west to Briggate - so I will look at the pubs in that order.Here is my preliminary list of pubs that are or have fronted onto or had an alley that led onto Kirkgate - and I will then go through them in order;Buck TavernGolden Cock/PrecinctBrewer's Arms/Free Market Hotel/Bradford HotelBoot and Shoe( in Boot and Shoe Yard)Old Royal OakBlack BearWellington (in Old Post Office Yard off Kirkgate to east of                  Old Royal Oak Yard)            GrapesHarper's ArmsBrougham's Arms/Duck and DrakeLion and Lamb/PhoenixOld Nag's HeadCherry Tree(in Cherry Tree Yard)Palace(White Swan and Willow Tree/Old Willow Tree - exact location unplaced but near site of the Palace)Royal Oak(in Church Row - adjacent to west side of Parish Church)Thirteen Bells (in Church Row - adjacent to west side of Parish Church)Old CrownCross Shears/Shears Tavern/Grove Tavern [possible Smith's Arm's - see note below]Victory InnFox and Grapes( in Fox and Grapes Yard)Malt ShovelShakespeareCrown/Crown and FleeceScotsman(poss same as entry below)Old Buck Inn/Royal Standard/Queen's Arms/Drayton ManorMason's ArmsRegentHarpRed LionKing's Head/Black BoyWhite SwanAs yet unplaced;Woolpacks/Old Woolpack.(listed in1797 and 1800 directory as "Wool-Packs"(sic). Leeds Directory for 1807 lists it as " Wool Packs" (Baines 1817 lists an "Old Wool Pack Yard" but no inn)Golden Fleece (1797 dir)Anchor (1797 dir)Smith's Arms(1797 dir).There was a 'Smith's Yard' on the south side of Kirkgate, west of 'Shear's Yard' which perhaps housed this Inn. Baines directory(1822) numbers Smith's Yard at No 9, under the old systemStar/Old Star (1797 dir and 1807. as 'Star') The 1809 Leeds directory lists a 'Star' - landlord John Kendall and an 'Old Star' -landlord John Hindle. These entries appear in the list of 'Innkeepers' this directory also includes an 'Alphabetical list of Inns and Public Houses' which only includes the 'Old Star' landlord John Hindle. This leads me to believe that the directory is in error and that there was only one pub and they have confused John Hindle and John Kendall - who are the same person. John Kendall is listed as the landlord of The 'Star' in the 1807 directory.Horse and Groom (1800 dir)True Blue (1807) [I had never come across this pub name before but 'Google' reveals one in Littlehampton and an 'Old True Blue' in Northampton] the 1807 directory lists 'Thomas Broughton as the landlord. the Leeds Directory for 1800 lists a thomas Broughton as being an innkeeper on Kirkgate, but does not name his establishment.New Inn (1807 and 1809)White Bear (1807 and 1809) [I'm tempted to believe this may be connected to the 'Black Bear' in some way, but I have no evidence of this]Prince Blucher (Baines 1817) Numbered by Baines as 86- under old numbering system - I estimate it was on the North side to west of Boot and Shoe Yard. Another highly unusual pub name, although there is a surviving pub of this name in Twickenham apparently.Dog and Gun (1809 directory)In "Old Square" or "Square" - which led off Kirkgate(I have not established its precise location;General Conway. (!798 and 1800 dir. located in "Square,Kirkgate)Harewood Arms ( 1809 and baines 1822 directory located in "Old Square", Kirkgate or "Square" in another entry)'Ephemeral' pubs Rose and Crown (1797 dir) I am confused about the entry for a 'Rose and Crown' pub in the 1797 directory. A common enough pub name but one that I can find no other allusion to on Kirkgate. the landlord is given as 'J.Townley' (note Townley not Townsley). Perhaps he has some link to 'W Townsley'who we know was the landlord of the 'Crown' on Assembly Street around, or at least shortly after, this time. Alternatively it may be a confusion of the 'Old Crown' whose landlord at this time, and for many years after, was 'J.Tunaley' (John) a very similar sounding name to 'J.Townley'.Rein Deer (sic.) See entry for 'Buck Tavern'.Rose . This inn is usually described as being on Call Lane although it sometimes appears as 'White Cloth Hall Street' and sometimes 'Kirkgate' ( e.g. Commercial directory for 1818-20)Lamb. This pub was located at 4 Timble Bridge (Pearson and White (1830) calls it 4 and 5 Timble Bridge- but sometimes described as 'Kirkgate'. It must have been near the 'Old Willow Tree' and the present 'Palace'. It should not be confused with the 'Lion and Lamb'There was also a pub at No. 20 Timble Bridge called the 'Spinner's Arms'Further Note on numbering. There seems to have been a complete overhaul of the numbering system of Kirkgate. In Baines Directory 1817 the numbers start at the South east - i.e at or near the Church - continue along the south side to Briggate , cross to the North side and continue east. The present system has been adopted by the time of Parson's 1826 directory - although there are often anomalies.                                                                                                                    
there are 10 types of people in the world. Those that understand ternary, those that don't and those that think this a joke about the binary system.

drapesy
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Post by drapesy »

The Buck TavernThis coaching inn was on the Corner of Briggate and Kirkgate( First appearance 1797 directory)It is sometimes difficult to separate this pub from the 'Old Buck' lower down Kirkgate (q.v). A 'Buck' appears in 1800 and 1807 directory but could be either this Inn or the 'Old Buck'. In the Leeds Directory for 1809 the Buck is identified as being at the "top of Kirkgate". Baines 1822 lists a 'Buck' at 67 KirkgateListed in Parson's Leeds Directory of 1826 and Pigot 1830 as being at 125 Briggate and 1 Kirkgate.Baines 1834 has it at 125 Briggate and 1 Kirkgate) Pearson and White(1830) do not give a number but call it the 'Old Buck'. Strangely though in another part of the directory Pearson and White list a pub as being at '125 Briggate(Corner of Kirkgate) called the 'Rein Deer' [sic]. I know of no other reference to this and can only assume it is an error of some kind.[ It has been suggested, quite plausibly, that someone has mistaken the sign of the 'Buck' for a reindeer]The inn was demolished c1911, Kelly's Directory lists it but the 1912 edition shows that the site is occupied by Mathias Robinson Department storeSee pictures on Page 4 The Golden Cock/the Precinct.(See photo above)Latterley the Precinct and now a branch of Superdrug.its address is 13/14 Kirkgate(no 13 in Parsons 1826, Pearson and White(1830)Pigot 1830,1834,1841, Baines 1834,White1839))First appearance 1797 directory.Listed in 1800,1807, 1809 and Baines 1817, 1822(no number given)The present building is a rebuild of an earlier Inn.This pub has been well covered before on secret Leeds - so rather than go through much of it again please look at its thread here;http://www.secretleeds.co.uk/forum/Mess ... 0&#3248The Pub underwent the name change from The Golden Cock to the Precinct in 1972/1973 and closed c1986(last yellow pages entry)Moving east of Vicar Lane;Brewer's Arms/Free Market Hotel/Bradford Hotel(or House)listed in Baines 1822 (without number)Parsons 1826 as 22 KirkgateAppears in Pigot 1830 without number; and in Pearson and White(1830) and Baines 1834 as 22 and 23. White's Directory for 1842 has the first reference I have found to the 'Free Market Tavern' - at 23 Kirkgate, but by the time of White's 1847 edition no 23 is occupied by an inn called 'Bradford House'. Charlton' Directory for 1847 and 1849 calls it the 'Bradford Hotel' however.It closed c 1872-1876 - when it disappears from directories. A new building at No 22 then appears as the 'City Arms' [sometimes referred to as 'Borough Arms']but this was a cocoa house rather than a pub - this in turn disappeared c 1909-1911The Boot and Shoe.(Boot and Shoe yard, Kirkgate listed in Baines 1817 and 1822, but no pub mentioned)A couple of doors to the west side of the Royal Oak stood the Boot and Shoe. Like the Royal Oak it had a long narrow yard that stretched to the approximate vicinity of where Millgarth police station now is. The conditions in these yards were incredibly bad and the Boot and Shoe Yard became notorious in more than one outbreak of Cholera. the whole Yard was demolished in 1844 to make way for market extensions.The pub should not be confused with another 'Boot and Shoe' which lay between Briggate and Vicar Lane(Wood Lane).                                                                        
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drapesy
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Post by drapesy »

The Old Royal Oak34 KirkgateThis pub is listed as the 'Royal Oak' in 1797,1800,1807 and 1809 directory(no number given) and Baines 1817 1822(no number given).Parsons 1826, Pigot 1830. Baines 1834 - but Pearson and White (1830) calls it the 'Royal Oak(old)'. Pigot 1834,1841 and White 1839 call it the 'Old Royal Oak' . all these sources number it at 34.Baines 1817 and 1822 numbers its Yard as 96 (old system)This too is a very old pub and a remarkable survivor - I suspect it must be a rebuild of an even earlier pub.At one time it had an extensive yard that ran right through to the area where Millgarth police station now is.    I've spoken to more than one person ,who know Leeds well,who seem unaware of it's existence - I think it must be Leeds answer to Harry Potters 'Leaky Cauldron'!!!! Update; Pub closed and empty 2010Conversion to shop/flats 2012The Black Bear.This unusually named establishment is listed in Parsons 1826 as being adjacent to the Royal Oak at No.35 Kirkgate It appears in Pearson and White's directory (1830) as being situated at 1 East Lane , whilst the 'Leeds Directory for 1839' has it at no. 2 East Lane. - It must have been situated at the corner of Kirkgate and East Street.The Wellington.Appears in Baines 1817 and 1822 and Pearson and White (1830)(no number) A notice in the Leeds Mercury of 27/11/1852 offers this in for sale and identifies it as being in "Old Post Office Yard" which was just to the east of Old Royal Oak Yard.it is listed in White(1861) but has gone by Parson's 1872/3.The Grapes Tavern Listed in Parsons 1826 as being at 37 Kirkgate. Also in Pigot 1830 (no number)Pearson and White (1830) has it at 91 East Cheap and 38 Kirkgate.East Cheap was a yard that exited from Kirkgate - the Grapes, I assume was on the corner.Harper's Arms.This inn appears to have been on the Corner (west) of Harper Street and Kirkgate.It appears in Baines 1817 and 1822 on Harper Street but without a number.Parsons 1826 gives it as 41 Kirkgate/13 Harper Street.Pearson and White (1830) has it as 13 Harper Street. It then appears in directories for 1839 - 1847 at 12 Harper Street. Listed in Parson 1872/73 but not in McCorquadale 1876.                                            
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there are 10 types of people in the world. Those that understand ternary, those that don't and those that think this a joke about the binary system.

drapesy
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Post by drapesy »

The Brougham's Arms/ Duck and DrakeAddress 43 KirkgateFirst appearance c1839 .'Leeds Directory for 1839' lists it at 43 Kirkgate.Appears as 'Brougham's Arms' at No 43 and 44in Baines 1834 and White 1839The former name was sometimes given as 'Brougham Arms' - e.g. Pigot 1841This fine pub has been a mecca for real ale lovers since its name change in the early80s.It has its own thread here:http://www.secretleeds.co.uk/forum/Mess ... readID=613            
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there are 10 types of people in the world. Those that understand ternary, those that don't and those that think this a joke about the binary system.

drapesy
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Post by drapesy »

The Lion and Lamb/The Phoenix.Leodis gives its address as 46a KirkgateThe 'Lion and Lamb' appears in 1797 directory, 1800,1807, 1809,Baines 1817and 1822 (no number),Parsons 1826 and Pigot 1830,Pearson and White (1830)Pigot 1834,1841 and White 1839 lists the Phoenix at 46 Kirkgate.I suspect that the building in the picture above was a new building to replace the 'Lion and Lamb', rather than just a name change.It was demolished c1866 to make way for the railway bridge that spans Kirkgate and covers the site of the pub.I am not aware of a photo of it - but fortunately a drawing survives. However - see photo on page 4.                
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there are 10 types of people in the world. Those that understand ternary, those that don't and those that think this a joke about the binary system.

drapesy
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Post by drapesy »

The Old Nag's HeadNo.57 KirkgateAppears in 1809 Leeds Directory as "Nag's Head" and is located as being "opposite the 'Old Church Yard'"Listed as "Old Nag's Head" in Baines 1817 and 1822 and Pearson and White(1830) - no number.( Also lists an Old Nag's Head yard)Listed as 57 Kirkgate in Parsons 1826, Pigot1830,1834,1841 Baines 1834.White 1839 gives the address as 56 Kirkgate and calls it the "Nag's Head Inn"This pub was mentioned on the 'Skulls' thread.It appears on the O.S. map of 1908 but waould not last much longer. It's last directory entry is in Kelly 1908 - by 1909 it, along with all the buildings east of the Brougham Arms, are no longer listed so must have been demolished around this time.This Leodis pic is from 1901                
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there are 10 types of people in the world. Those that understand ternary, those that don't and those that think this a joke about the binary system.

drapesy
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Post by drapesy »

The Cherry Tree Cherry Tree Yard is listed in Baines 1817 and 1822 at 119 Kirkgate (old numbering system)This pub was not on Kirkgate but had a yard that exited onto that street between 57[the Old Nag's Head] and 58 Kirkgate.I have not found an image of the pub itself which seems to have been demolished in the early part of the 20th century.this is a picture showing the incredibly low entrance on to Kirkgate .The building at the left edge of the photograph is the 'Old Nag's Head' - compare with previous photo. The evidence I have so far for this pub is rather circumstantial - I have no direct evidence for a pub as such but am surmising a pub must have existed to give the Yard its name!
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there are 10 types of people in the world. Those that understand ternary, those that don't and those that think this a joke about the binary system.

drapesy
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Post by drapesy »

Crossing to the South side of Kirkgate.The Palace.67 KirkgateThe first reference I have found to the Palace shows that it was not originally reckoned to be on Kirkgate - but on East Street.(usu.no.4)The Palace is another fine pub for real ale drinkers.A former Melbourne house some of its surviving signage and leaded windows are on the 'Melbourne signs' thread;http://www.secretleeds.co.uk/forum/Mess ... adID=315St Peter's Churchyard/ Old Churchyard.It would appear that in the late 18th and early 19th century. the churchyard contained at least two pubs. The exact location of the Churchyard I have not established but the 'Old Nag's Head' is described as being 'opposite the 'Old Church Yard' - showing that it must have been in this area , near the 'Palace', further up Kirkgate I assume.The two pubs are :The Old Willow Tree/Willow Tree. (. In 1800 directory as the'Old Willow Tree' located at 'Timble Bridge'.Appears as 'Willow Tree' in 1798 and 1809 as being in 'Old Church Yard').Baines 1822 calls it the 'Old Willow Tree' at Timble Bridge as does Pearson and White(1830).The White Swan (listed in 1800 and 1807 directory as 'St.Peter's Churchyard' and in1798 and 1809 as being in 'Old Church Yard').Baines 1822 and Pearson and White(1830)calls it the 'Swan Inn' in Old Churchyard.The old Parish church was demolished and the present church erected in 1841. I assume these changes caused the demolition of the Old Willow Tree and the White Swan.The Royal Oak.Despite there being another pub called the Royal Oak , or more usually the 'Old Royal Oak', only a short walk further up Kirkgate. Appears in directories for 1800, 1807 and 1809 and Pearson and White (1830) without a number, but is identified as being on 'High Court Lane'. Baines, 1822 places it in 'Old Church Yard'This pub is listed in Parsons 1826 as being at No70 Kirkgate and No1 High Court Lane and so must have been on the eastern side of the junction of the two streets. Leeds Directory for 1839 lists it at 28 High Court Lane, presumably using a different number system. The pub appears to have closed c 1880 - it is in directories for 1876 but not 1882. Thirteen Bells At 6 Church Row near the parish church, and named after its bells. It first apears in White 1861, and appears in directories from then. By 1890(Slater) it appears to have gone.    A Leeds Mercury report of a stabbing incident in the 1850s referes to the 'Ring o' Bells Inn', Kirkgate - I suspect this is the same establishment.                                    
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there are 10 types of people in the world. Those that understand ternary, those that don't and those that think this a joke about the binary system.

drapesy
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Post by drapesy »

Continuing west along the south side of KirkgateThe Old Crown Inn.No 74 KirkgateAppears as "Old Crown" in 1797 directory(no number), 1800,1807 (as 'Crown')1809, Baines 1817(Baines does not give a number but calls it 'Bottom of Kirkgate')It appears at No 74 (unless stated) in Parsons 1826, Pearson and White(1830) Pigot 1830, 1834 and 1841 (no number),Baines 1834, White 1839.Like the 'Old Nag's Head' this pub has made an appearance on the 'skulls' thread.The pub must have existed by 1790 as this photo shows a banner outside stating that the Ancient order of Foresters founded their ' Court No. 1' here in that year. The O.S. map of 1847 shows it as still being open , but it closed sometime between 1872/73 and this photo , which dates from 1907. It appears in Directories up to 1872/73 but is absent from Parsons 1876 directory/see further pic on page 4The building was demolished before 1934 This inn is referred to as the 'Old Crown' as far back as 1797, if not before and is almost invariably referred to as such. The Leeds directory for 1807 however calls it the'Crown'. The landlord in 1807 is given as John Tunaley - who is also listed from 1797 to as the landlord of this Inn - so we can be sure that the 1807 directory is referring to this establishment not the 'Crown' on Crown Court.                         
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there are 10 types of people in the world. Those that understand ternary, those that don't and those that think this a joke about the binary system.

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